July 20th
The last three days in Seward have been so enjoyable, and it is one of my favorite towns on this
trip. It reminds me of a cross between Sandpoint and Kaslo, BC, with a charming, yet not glitzy
downtown, with older businesses of restaurants, bars, stores, blended with recently created hip,
well-presented ambiances and terrific menus of several restaurants and a brewery, highly
recommended by Lael.
On the 18th, we had a leisurely drive to Seward, leaving Peterson Lake in Sterling, and seeing
the fly-fishing folk along the Kenai River, and a slew of outfitters along the highway. Mark said
there were markedly fewer fishermen this year, compared to two years ago, with barely room for
him to park and fish himself. It was also dip-netting for king and sockeye, so that may account
for different locales of alternate snaggings. Seeing the mountains close to the highway and
community, with roads accessing mountains and trails around Resurrection Bay, made visible
Lael's earlier description of the difference between Seward and Homer. In the latter, one must
boat to anywhere across the bay to enjoy those areas.
Mark's smaller campground by the water was full, so we temporarily took a site with all the
crowded RVs down the road. When we drove to town for lunch, however, and passed the
original place, there was an opening, so I claimed it in a chair, while he went to retrieve the utility
trailer left behind, and here we sit, overlooking the bay, with more space and much fewer and
quieter neighbors.
After lunch at Ray's by the marina, we visited Lael at his home up the hill from the main road. It
is a cozy house, with a view of one of the multiple glaciers, from his front lawn and living room
window. He is one of the sweetest, gentlest, intelligent and most creative young men known,
and his life-style and home reflect these qualities. There are four hens he has nurtured and will
give to friends, with definite personalities; although the alpha girl is also the one who allows
herself to be hen-pecked by the others. Lael ordered a special guard contraption from some
company, made out of a red, calico printed potholder with straps attached to put around her
wings, and I guess it works, and what's her name doesn't mind, after the initial wrestling to
install it. Because he is moving to Anchorage in September, to live with Marah, his veggie
garden is reduced from several to one box with kale, chives, lettuce and something else.
He has created tasteful and functional kitchen cabinets out of older and more "cluttered"
designed ones, has a piece of art in a bathroom one, with a concentric circle, which he'll take
with him. It was somewhat unreal to be introduced to his fabulous, master pieces of furniture,
some award-winners, in his sparse, packed-up living-room and bedroom, just sitting there with
no special lighting and staging that these deserve. Lael creates almost three-dimensional
geometric visions in his wood-working of fine art, has sold some, and a gallery in Anchorage
houses another. His website, laelgordon.com, is impressive, and his work needs more
exposure to those who appreciate and can afford to own pieces.
is a cozy house, with a view of one of the multiple glaciers, from his front lawn and living room
window. He is one of the sweetest, gentlest, intelligent and most creative young men known,
and his life-style and home reflect these qualities. There are four hens he has nurtured and will
give to friends, with definite personalities; although the alpha girl is also the one who allows
herself to be hen-pecked by the others. Lael ordered a special guard contraption from some
company, made out of a red, calico printed potholder with straps attached to put around her
wings, and I guess it works, and what's her name doesn't mind, after the initial wrestling to
install it. Because he is moving to Anchorage in September, to live with Marah, his veggie
garden is reduced from several to one box with kale, chives, lettuce and something else.
He has created tasteful and functional kitchen cabinets out of older and more "cluttered"
designed ones, has a piece of art in a bathroom one, with a concentric circle, which he'll take
with him. It was somewhat unreal to be introduced to his fabulous, master pieces of furniture,
some award-winners, in his sparse, packed-up living-room and bedroom, just sitting there with
no special lighting and staging that these deserve. Lael creates almost three-dimensional
geometric visions in his wood-working of fine art, has sold some, and a gallery in Anchorage
houses another. His website, laelgordon.com, is impressive, and his work needs more
exposure to those who appreciate and can afford to own pieces.
That night, we had dinner at his favorite place, The Cookery, downtown, which is a tapas-styled
eatery. His friend is one of the chefs there. Ambiance was stream-lined, with the original dark
and carved bar, lightened up with a light wooded counter and simple wooden and tarnished
metal stools; modern, round, simple goldish light fixtures above the light pine tables, with
colorful wooden chairs. Incredible small plates of my favorite with marinated mushrooms on
toast, a luscious duck pastrami with peach salsa, meat loaf with potato salad, mussels with
potatoes in a light creamy sauce, all with a hearty and chewy bread, and a tomato tapenade,
especially to sponge up the sauces, prosecco and beer. Dessert was cream cheese ice cream
with raspberry sauce, with their own cured warm bacon pieces, and a crepe with lemon-butter
sauce, that was reminiscent of Yorkshire pudding, accompanied by full-bodied decaf via French
press. All was eaten and shared family-style, topped off with an easy stroll around main street.
eatery. His friend is one of the chefs there. Ambiance was stream-lined, with the original dark
and carved bar, lightened up with a light wooded counter and simple wooden and tarnished
metal stools; modern, round, simple goldish light fixtures above the light pine tables, with
colorful wooden chairs. Incredible small plates of my favorite with marinated mushrooms on
toast, a luscious duck pastrami with peach salsa, meat loaf with potato salad, mussels with
potatoes in a light creamy sauce, all with a hearty and chewy bread, and a tomato tapenade,
especially to sponge up the sauces, prosecco and beer. Dessert was cream cheese ice cream
with raspberry sauce, with their own cured warm bacon pieces, and a crepe with lemon-butter
sauce, that was reminiscent of Yorkshire pudding, accompanied by full-bodied decaf via French
press. All was eaten and shared family-style, topped off with an easy stroll around main street.
Sunday was sunny with no clouds. Lael picked us up at 11, and took us for a 5 mile beach hike,
through woods, over bridges on creeks where salmon were spawning. At the trail's beach
entrance, we met a man and woman, afterwards Lael describing them as two of his best friends
in Seward, which was super! Emily, a nurse, knows someone in Sandpoint, who I know from
yoga and mutual friends, and will relay greetings. Mamoud is one of two buddies Lael hangsout
with consistently, and he works at the salmon hatchery. As we passed them picnicking on
the rock and black sand, they were sharing a meal with a flask of tequila, which was chuckled
about. The three of us walked further down where we were alone, sat and ate our PBJs, turkey
sandwiches, fruit and trail mix, basking in sunshine and comfortable, easy conversation.
Lael said farewell, will do his Jack-and-Jill softball game later, and may have gone to Anchorage
that night. We'll rendezvous there, if it works out, when we leave Seward tomorrow. We got the
chairs out by the water, read and enjoyed the peace.
through woods, over bridges on creeks where salmon were spawning. At the trail's beach
entrance, we met a man and woman, afterwards Lael describing them as two of his best friends
in Seward, which was super! Emily, a nurse, knows someone in Sandpoint, who I know from
yoga and mutual friends, and will relay greetings. Mamoud is one of two buddies Lael hangsout
with consistently, and he works at the salmon hatchery. As we passed them picnicking on
the rock and black sand, they were sharing a meal with a flask of tequila, which was chuckled
about. The three of us walked further down where we were alone, sat and ate our PBJs, turkey
sandwiches, fruit and trail mix, basking in sunshine and comfortable, easy conversation.
Lael said farewell, will do his Jack-and-Jill softball game later, and may have gone to Anchorage
that night. We'll rendezvous there, if it works out, when we leave Seward tomorrow. We got the
chairs out by the water, read and enjoyed the peace.
Today, we walked about 2 miles to the Major Marine Tours, where our 7.5 hour fantastic boat
ride began on Orca Song. John was the NPS ranger, with a robust baritone, animated voice,
who educated us on the PA system, as well as visiting all throughout. This is his fourth national
park placement, Tennessee was the previous, and he would like his next assignment to be
Maine. There was a young, fun crew of four, the Captain Krank, first mate Ryan from Lewiston,
ID, and two food gals, all very helpful and a joy in serving us 50+ passengers.
ride began on Orca Song. John was the NPS ranger, with a robust baritone, animated voice,
who educated us on the PA system, as well as visiting all throughout. This is his fourth national
park placement, Tennessee was the previous, and he would like his next assignment to be
Maine. There was a young, fun crew of four, the Captain Krank, first mate Ryan from Lewiston,
ID, and two food gals, all very helpful and a joy in serving us 50+ passengers.
The trip included viewing two glaciers up close, Holgate and Aialik, with multiple aquamarine
ones nearby, and all forming from the hub of the Harding Icefield. The wind and cold from these
magnificent, hundreds of years-old masses, shifted us into warmer layers of clothing, and the
icebergs and smaller ice-floes were trailing in the grey silted waters, bordering the consistent
blued. Mild calving of ice falling from the fields were witnessed. I wondered how close the one
present sailboat could get, and if the two sailors worried about a large ice fall, creating huge
wakes.
ones nearby, and all forming from the hub of the Harding Icefield. The wind and cold from these
magnificent, hundreds of years-old masses, shifted us into warmer layers of clothing, and the
icebergs and smaller ice-floes were trailing in the grey silted waters, bordering the consistent
blued. Mild calving of ice falling from the fields were witnessed. I wondered how close the one
present sailboat could get, and if the two sailors worried about a large ice fall, creating huge
wakes.
Mark asked if my expectations were fulfilled with this tour, and I did not have any, but hoped to
see whales. No disappointments here, since the conscientious and great spotter of a captain,
sighted and then maneuvered us close to a huge pod of orcas, with a calf breaching and
frolicking multiple times (one female staff said this was the first orca breaching they've seen).
There were several families, with up to five in one group, with the tallest fin seen. In between
otters (there was a ring of five and individual ones), sea lions on rocks, puffins flying and
perching on cliffs, porpoises driving alongside, Capt. Krank spotted a humpback whale a mile
and a half away, and propelled us over for an amazing show. There were several of them, but
one continued to breach, starting with half-body and waving one barnacle-covered white fin, and
then breaching full bodied continuously, even as we left him or her. The ranger and captain
shared no one really knows why they breach, and that it may be for pure fun and joy!
Passengers of a mother with her two adult sons and I were whooping it up with each acrobatic
leap (Mark stayed on the upper deck), waving to the fin, feeling awe-struck and happy.
see whales. No disappointments here, since the conscientious and great spotter of a captain,
sighted and then maneuvered us close to a huge pod of orcas, with a calf breaching and
frolicking multiple times (one female staff said this was the first orca breaching they've seen).
There were several families, with up to five in one group, with the tallest fin seen. In between
otters (there was a ring of five and individual ones), sea lions on rocks, puffins flying and
perching on cliffs, porpoises driving alongside, Capt. Krank spotted a humpback whale a mile
and a half away, and propelled us over for an amazing show. There were several of them, but
one continued to breach, starting with half-body and waving one barnacle-covered white fin, and
then breaching full bodied continuously, even as we left him or her. The ranger and captain
shared no one really knows why they breach, and that it may be for pure fun and joy!
Passengers of a mother with her two adult sons and I were whooping it up with each acrobatic
leap (Mark stayed on the upper deck), waving to the fin, feeling awe-struck and happy.
After this outrageous and satisfying experience, Mark and I walked over to the third Lael recommended restaurant, Chinook, at the marina, for dinner. He had a great grilled salmon with
quinoa (the waitress asked the chef, and reported he prepares it with ginger, garlic and mayo,
for a fragrant delicious flavor, that even Mark said he enjoyed), and I had sable, which turns out
to be butterfish, one of my favorites at Japanese restaurants, with brown rice and asparagus.
To get back to "M" we took our time walking along the water, through the campgrounds and
parks. We were hot and tired by all the wonderful stimuli, and ready to "chill," cool-off from the
mainland heat today. I meditated in the breeze and shade, then joined Mark outside by the bay
in our chairs. Another long, cute otter entertained us and others out for the night, making
himself into a rolling ball, and then spreading himself long on his back, with those adorable feet
and paws saluting the air.
Bedtime, and I trust the new neighbors, consisting of five young guys with one older, long and
white-haired gentleman, will go gentle into this good night. Sounds like a bachelor party of
sorts, and they are loudly and affectionately swaggering into town for karaoke now. All is well.
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